Most design houses place their bets on either function or fantasy, but Jatin Malik seamlessly straddles the two. The distinguished designer has etched an indelible mark in the groomswear landscape and continues to be regarded as trailblazer for constantly pushing the envelope. Rich textiles, intricate crafts and impeccable tailoring make up his couture pieces for the new era man. It’s no wonder then that Jatin Malik Couture’s creations have been graced on red carpets, international fashion weeks and favoured by celebrities.
Right now, the New Delhi-based atelier is busier than ever. The team is in the midst of opening Jatin Malik Couture’s first flagship store in Mumbai, they are prepping for a massive showcase at the Silk Road Paris for their first-ever Indian marketplace, and they have just launched their latest collection Pablo by JMC.
A couture collection that showcases the appeal of heritage crafts and silhouettes that give Indian designs a global spin. Ahead, the couturier gives Khush a download on what to expect from his latest offerings and the groomswear trends to watch out for in 2023.
What was your starting point for Pablo by JMC?
The motivation behind Pablo by JMC specifically was the world-famous artist Pablo Picasso and his infamous art-form Cubism. When I started researching his work, I was immediately hooked. Pablo's techniques and behaviour fascinated me to create a collection where both art and fashion merge that it seems like one. We hired a very talented artist, Amrai Dua to execute my vision onto the merchandise. Amrai, the founder of New Delhi-based Amrai’s Art Studio, is a contemporary Indian artist rated among top 101 female illustrators in the country and her practice focuses on the intersection of expressionism, social change and technology. Amrai did it so beautifully that the category was immediately loved by our grooms. This is one of our best-selling collections so far—all my inspirations and motivations are derived by providing value to my clients and giving something to them they have never seen before.
How have you experimented with the styles in this collection?
We aim to provide our clients with something different with our designs and silhouettes. We launched a new silhouette called the Crop Jacket. It's the length of a bandhgala but in an open jacket concept. We launched this category with just 3 designs, and it immediately started working better than the rest of the categories. I was surprised to see it becoming the second best-seller category, thanks to its versatility. It can be worn in any event irrespective of how big or small the event is. It can also be paired androgynously with dresses and shirts and trousers, which is a way our clients only introduced us with.
Please tell us about the crafts used
We take our groomswear couture very seriously. The tagline ‘100% Manmade' defines us the best. Inspired by the art form Cubism by Picasso, we changed the elements that we had previously used, moulded them into the patterns, and moved away from our signature floral embroideries to geometrical patterns such squares, cuboids with antique dabka highlighting, three-tier hand embroidered process onto the silk base. We incubated embroidery techniques such as Kashmiri Jamawar and 5-panel hand embroidery, all showcasing Cubism in one way or the other. We tried being somewhere in between the minimalist and the maximalist.
What's the hero piece from the new collection?
Hands-down our Cubism Short Jacket. It was one of the trickiest pieces to design, and yet the most loveable piece so far. We have used a 5-panel hand embroidery process with Cubism-inspired embroideries such as antique brass elements moulded into cuboids, triangles, and other geometric elements. We also used the marble hand-dye technique in our pleated kurta that is paired with the embroidered jacket set. This particular outfit goes well in any function be it sangeet, mehndi or even cocktail events.
What are the three big groomswear trends for 2023?
1. Open contemporary sherwani: The style is going to be a big trend. New-age grooms are more exposed to fashion and their hold on their individuality. They look for something that will make them stand out, and not the tried-and-tested designs. Plus, they are big on layering.
2. Maximal Accessory Pairing: Accessories are a game-changer, and it can elevate the outfit in a way that gives it an edge. Having statement malas paired with the sherwani or a stand-out kalgi on top of the safa just completes the look.
3. Sneakers: This is a relatively new term but grooms have started opting for statement sneakers, pairing them with Indo-western outfits. And I am all for it. It looks stylish, comfortable and perfect to make a statement. People have now started shying away from hand-embroidered juttis and started opting for chic handmade shoes or sneakers, which can also be reused later. I personally suggest my grooms go for our handmade patina-finished shoes in tan or cooler block with a sherwani, which they can wear again with their trousers and jeans for other events.
For more information, visit:
Jatin Malik Couture
www.JatinMalikCouture.com
Instagram: @JatinMalikCouture