The history of the Benarasi weave is a fascinating one. Emerging as a handwoven fabric in the early 19th century in Varanasi, it is believed that its true inception was in the 17th century with the migration of silk weavers from Gujarat during the famine of 1603. But it was developed in excellence during the 18th and 19th century.
Today, the Banarasi fabric is a quintessential part of Indian wear. From suits to lehengas and saris, they say no bridal trousseau is complete without a few of these pieces. The charm of a Banarasi cannot be defined in words, it's an aura that can be felt, and a good Banarasi weave when catches the eye will leave the onlookers drooling. The Banarasi sari is not only popular as part of the bridal wear in Bengal weddings but for women from across religions and social statuses.
What is a Banarasi Weave?
The Benarasi weave is characterised by a unique hand-weaving technique to weave intricate designs with gold and silver threads. Traditionally, this weave was carried out on a fabric called Katan silk. These are usually made without zari borders but with the softest and heaviest silk, and till today, a silk Banarasi weave will always come with a hefty price tag. Known for their luminous textures, the rich fabric doesn't crumple easily, and these magnificent brocades are unmatched in its looks.
The Evolution of the Banarasi Sari
Initially the Benarasi weave was crafted only on handlooms, making them a rarity. Over the years, the labour-intensive processes involved in weaving, and the use of high quality raw materials has been replaced with new and improvised ways of production including using power looms. While this does bring down the cost of the garment, it loses its old-world charm. However, it's worth noting that even with technology, Varanasi still uses the age old technique of hand weaving. Various Indian designers like Ekaya Banaras, Gaurang Shah and Raw Mango have maintained the traditional techniques of creating exquisite handlooms even today.
Made in various fabrics like cotton, silk, organza, tissue, Kota Masuria and georgette, Benarasi weaves are primarily famous for the exquisite silk saris with luxurious zari borders. The beauty of a Benarasi sari is not just limited to the cultural and physical realm, but also the notion of the piece being a timeless style that is passed over generations. It is also associated as a symbol of social status, economic status and class; a highly valued piece that is known to have descended from the royalty, Banarasi brocades have time travelled many lands and centuries.
It has even acquired global stature with international celebrities to political and style high brows, across the globe who are enamoured by this grandiose Indian statement.
It is the rich cultural heritage of the Benarasi weave that makes it a popular and standout choice to the usual bridal wear. And when looking for an ensemble that screams tradition, Banarasi silks are a no brainer. From suits to lehengas and sari, they are a quintessential part of a bridal trousseau. In most parts of India, given the fact that it's considered auspicious. While some brides wear at least one Benarasi sari on their wedding day, others keep it for the reception ceremony or may receive it as a shagun. But no matter what, an Indian wedding without one of these is incomplete.